Friday, June 25, 2010

The Isha Yoga Center

I wish I could tell you more about what exactly Isha Yoga is, but even with a tour guide the concept is still very vague to me (as is the situation with many traditional Indian practices we've learned about). So all educational details aside, I'll try to describe to you exactly what I saw and felt as we walked through this spiritual place many, many kilometers outside the city.

The drive to the center was about 45 minutes up into the mountains (yay more dirt roads...not). On the way we passed a lot of coconut tree farms and the closer to the center we also saw a lot of walking trails. Upon arriving we were told to remove our shoes and to leave all bags, cameras and phones with security. (Security being two tiny Indian women handing out plastic numbers and putting your bag on a hook). I thought I'd be sneaky and bring my camera in but then chickened out so I only have one picture haha.

The first thing we saw upon entering the center was a 20 foot tall stone wall with 3 faces carved into it. The three faces represented intense thought, meditation, and awareness.

Next was the visit to the temple. The outside walls were lined vertically with long metal rods. Attached up and down, the rods were gold metal leaves with tiny votive candles in each one. After purchasing an offering to give (see the one photo I took) inside we were instructed to walk counter clockwise around a big stone bowl with lotus flowers floating in water and then a metal lady figurine laying face down with her hair down and her right leg crossed over her left. She had her right hand under her forehead and her left lying straight out in front of her...it was a little creepy looking to be honest. Next we walked into the entrance to meet a huge gold trident looking statue placed in a shallow box. Everyone tied their gold/yellow bark with the string around trident (this was supposed to represent a prayer for one’s significant other). In the bottom of the box we placed our leaves with lard and a wick which you light from someone else’s wick. This was to represent prosperity. Next we walked (counter clockwise still) around all these people who were praying lying down in the same position as the metal lady outside. A few steps below them was the main attraction, an egg shaped god with 10 hands. Here we traded our papers printed with red string for a real red string. This we tied on our left wrists to represent worry and fear. You're supposed to leave it on for 40 days then untie it and re-tie it to a fruit tree. We walked out of the main area and sat cross legged to pray and meditate. Lastly we laid our jasmine flowers and leaves in a basin on the way out.

I was a little indifferent towards this temple. Usually I am very moved by spiritual places like this but the people laying face down like that was a bit strange for me, and I've never been one to offer gifts to Idols...but still it was really nice to see how important this place is to so many people and how seriously they take it. Even small children were laying face down to pray.

The next part was very cool. First we walked down some steps toward a tall statue engraved with figures to represent all religions. I liked this place better than the temple already. Next, we stepped up 3 huge steps toward a long hallway where a group of people sit and meditate or pray together until the prior group is finished inside. Their time is up once a bell is rung and the next group goes inside. When I say "inside" I am referring to an enormous dome enclosure made of thousands of tiny bricks. It was absolutely huge, and made echoing sounds with every small movement. I felt like I had entered an ancient room or tomb or something. Upon entering you can place lotus flowers in a square pool around this giant capsule shaped stone with a white cloth tied around it. Next you find a place to sit, either in one of the small cave outlets carved into the dome just big enough for one person to sit in or just on the floor in front of them. Above the little meditation caves were tiny triangular windows circling all around. It was almost as if you could feel the wind rushing down the hallway and swirling around up to the top of the dome. As I sat down in that cool, dark dome I closed my eyes, placed my palms facing up, and I felt so peaceful. None of my bug bites were itching, my aches and pains from Indian dance weren't bothering me, I was completely content. After about 10 minutes the bell rang for us and we were motioned to leave.

Next we went to what was absolutely, without a doubt the most magical place I have ever been. There have been only a handful of times in my life where I have truly felt touched by God but this was certainly the most powerful. Before entering, we went into a women's changing room and washed off our legs while others were removing all their clothing and replacing it with an orange dress covering. Next we all walked around this narrow corner designed so nobody outside could see. Around the corner was a huge stone enclosed space with about 50 stone steps leading down to a large pool with huge tall vaulted ceilings. The ceiling above the pool was painted with what we assume were Yogic gods and goddesses in various positions. In the center of the water was a big metal dome and all the women in orange were submerging themselves into the water and wading toward the dome to place their palms against it. They all looked so beautiful with their hair soaking wet and their eyes closed each looking like they felt so close to whoever their God was. To the left of the pool was a huge waterfall pouring out from the top of the stone wall. They allow only women and then only men and they alternate throughout the day so everybody can swim in the pool separately. I dipped my feet in the shallow end and just allowed myself to feel completely overcome. I don't know if it was all the feminine energy or the echoing sounds against the stone walls, or the water dripping all around us, but like I said, I felt so calm and close to God. It was almost like every inch of my skin was being wrapped in a soft, thick warm cloth and I couldn't help but smile. I put my hands to my heart and closed my eyes and prayed until the bell rang for it to be the men's turn. As I was climbing back up the stairs I remember thinking how great a thing it is that so many women of different religions can worship in what physically may look like the same way, but is really each to their own God with their own beliefs. I also wished we had gone into the water like the other women, but still it was a tremendous experience that I definitely will not forget :)

My offering at the temple.


Some little kids who practice martial arts at the yoga center.


Nathalie and I from this mornings goodbye ceremony with all the professors and the trustee who funded part of our trip.

4-5 of us at the ceremony.

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